Taquerias are dining staples across both North and South America. We take them for granted, like pizza joints or Chinese food, because they've become as ubiquitous in ethnic American cuisine as pizza or sushi. They are always there and ready to dish out some carne asada or al pastor at any time of the day or night. So it came as a surprise to us that none of these fine establishments have ever received a Michelin star...until now.
Mexico City's El Califa de León has made history as the first taqueria ever to be awarded the coveted Michelin star. According to the LA Times, the modest, no-frills taco joint in the working-class San Rafael neighborhood has been serving up exceptional cuisine for over 60 years. The Michelin recognition has caught everyone, including the owners, by surprise. Chef Arturo Rivera Martinez, who has manned the grill for over two decades, tells the LA Times, "I didn't realize the magnitude of the whole thing. I had no idea what a Michelin star was." He certainly does now. Since being awarded the prestigious star last week, El Califa de León has seen crowds lined up down and down the block, with dining wait times exceeding two hours. The humble shop only has counter seating and take-out service, but that hasn't deterred the throngs of fans seeking a perfect chuleta or bistec. Curious tourists from around the world are now flocking to the eatery to sample its lauded home-grown cuisine.
Michelin's anonymous inspectors praised El Califa's trademark "gaonera" taco as "exceptional," commending the "expertly cooked" sliced beef filet seasoned simply with salt and lime. They raved about the "excellent" fresh corn tortillas made fresh on-site daily as well. For a city saturated with over 11,000 taco joints, El Califa's Michelin star is an amazing feat. The Michelin recognition has undoubtedly put the unassuming establishment on the global culinary map and sparked interest in the city's rich taco scene.
For 66-year-old owner Mario Hernández Alonso, the Michelin star is an unexpected yet welcome award he never imagined when his father opened the shop in 1956. "We've never seen anything like it," Hernandez tells the LA Times. "My parents would never have imagined it." The precedent this sets is huge as well since Michelin is now offering seats at their table to the smaller neighborhood restaurants we all know and love worldwide. Let's hope they shout out some of our favorite mom and pop hole-inthe wall eateries