PHENIX, Va. - To get to Nisani Farm, and the edge of a burgeoning food and health movement, requires going to the end of the road. Literally.
It means taking a 90-minute drive south from Richmond, Virginia, to the tiny town of Keysville, then picking up Route 40, a two-lane highway that rolls through the woods and past the occasional soybean farm. Around the time the cellphone navigation app loses service, a few turns past a dusty service station and the nondescript Bank of Charlotte County leads to a single-lane blacktop road.